I had to laugh when my friend Susan casually asked me if I knew how to make Siberian pelmeni.
Susan, bathed in the innocence one who has never attempted them, wanted to make. “My daughters had a Russian nanny who used to make them these incredible meat dumplings,” she said, “and after she left us, we haven’t really found anything else they like quite so much.”
I could not imagine clever, chic, artistic Susan, who works as a TV producer, up to her elbows in flour and pelmeni filling, nor indeed, that Susan could spare the entire day and a half the process entails. Pelmeni and Susan didn’t seem like a match made in heaven when I looked at it objectively. Susan’s life little resembles that of the women of the ancient Finno-Ugric tribes who brought pelmeni to the Ural Mountains. Although she’s often on the go, she’s not necessarily on the move; so is not forced to carry her entire food supply on her back, which means she isn’t choosing pelmeni because of the protection they provide to her family from savage animal predators: the dough on the outside of the dumpling masks the smell of the meat inside, an early, and indeed enduring appeal of pelmeni to the local tribes of the Ural Mountains.
The climate Susan lives in (Fulham, London) doesn’t get cold enough to facilitate the natural flash freezing capability which made pelmeni such a hit with Siberian housewives. These sturdy women gathered after an animal had been slaughtered to create an assembly line Henry Ford would have envied: parlaying the fresh meat and simple dough into hundreds of delectable pelmeni, which they then buried in the snow. This locked in the freshness of the meat and provided an ample stockpile of food for the long Siberian winter ahead. What does a chic yummy mummy need with this kind of fodder?
But then I thought: Susan is, after all, a mother, and mothers through the ages have known that you’ll never be stuck if you have some frozen pelmeni on hand: be they buried in the -40-degree Siberian permafrost or tucked in the back of your SUBZERO freezer. So, Susan, if you can find a two-day break in your hectic life, here is your pelmeni recipe:
If you are going to go to the trouble of making pelmeni, so the Russian saying goes, you might as well make a lot. And, take your time, because, “pelmeni ni terpyat speshki,” or pelmeni don’t tolerate rushing. And, take a leaf from the Siberian villagers, rope in some like-minded friends, and make it a community effort.
Ingredients:
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Author’s notes:
This article first appeared in French in La Russie d’Aujourd’hui, a supplement in Le Figaro on April 21, 2010.
Recipe adapted from A Gift To Young Housewives by Elena Molokhovets’ and A La Russe, by Darra Goldstein.
I’m indebted also to www.pelemeni.ru.
Dear Reader:
Thank you for visiting my blog and reading this article. It means a lot to me, as does your feedback. Tell me, did you try the recipe? Did it work? Are you a Yummy Mummy?
Well done Jen! What an achievement! You’ve managed to make pel’meni appealing (which I found even Pushkin Cafe failed to do for me!). I might have to rope in the Russians stuck (volcano-ash) in my house, though I think Tanya would disapprove of the herbs.
Dearest Jennifer, I am deeply, deeply flattered by both the description of myself and the inclusion of the recipe in your blog. But, in hindsight, it would have been easier to sleep with a cabinet minister to get the Russian nanny’s visa extended than attempt this myself.
But I feel a gauntlet has been thrown down and I need to get in touch with my inner Finno-Ugric tribeswoman. I will let you know how I get on. xxxx
It isn’t hard to imagine you with all the ash-u-gees landed in on you! How like you, Tess to take everyone in! Go for the herbs…just sneak them in when T isn’t looking. Missing you!
Dearest Susan:
Purely non-fiction, I assure you. I look forward to hearing all about the Finno-Ugric roots…they also wore a version of waxed cotton, did you know;)
Hi Jen,
I am inspired to make antipodean pel’meni. Now that the Maori have stopped eating “long pig”, we need some new insights into cuisine. I’m not aware of how much Finno-Urgic influence has yet reached New Zealand, but maybe now is the time.
Thanks for the inspiration – as ever.
Dear Jen,
Aside from another HAPPY BIRTHDAY, I have to say, I have NO IDEA what this recipe translates to and really don’t care as it look so luscious in your photos, I must try it for soup or cocktails or whatever!
As I have said many times, I am having trouble keeping up with you; your recipes and photos are piling up for the next special occasion! Thank you!
xoxo A.A.D.
Loved the pictures. They helped a LOT. Thanks.
Have you ever tried making beet salad? My roommate and I used to treat ourselves with it for dessert after a long day struggling with metro and a long walk home after work, near Profsoyuznaya. 🙂
Mary, can’t wait to hear how your antipodean p’s go! Send me some news of NZ!!
AAD – ravioli…dumplings…? I worry they don’t look as they should.
Laura – beets – always a good idea. I have been in touch with the editors and we’ll be looking at summer salads to spice up shashlik…which of course Russians would never worry about!! Profsoyuznaya in my way of thinking is the Road to Hell. Hell, of course being Butova where I lived for way way way too long with HRH.
Jennifer, we’re in St. Pete’s right at this moment – October 20th – and would love a recommendation of where to find pelmeni as delicious as the ones you make on your blog! Could you do that? My email is nancy@artforyoursake.com. Gratefully yours, Anatoly and Nancy from Chicago.