This rich, creamy French/Russian classic was named in honor of one of Russia's ambassadors to Paris. It crossed the ocean to become a popular dinner party classic in the mid twentieth-century
1gallonof brining solution (waterone lemon, cloves, brown sugar and salt)
5lbsboneless veal roasttrimmed and tied
3Tblsbutter
2TblsTbls olive oil
2tspsof salt
1tspof pepper
2celery ribsroughly chopped
2carrotspeeled and roughly chopped
1large yellow onionchopped
1inbouquet garni (bay leafrosemary sprig, thyme, and Italian flat parsley) tiedcheesecloth
2cupdry white wine and 1of water
Soubise
1/3cuplong-grain white rice
2Tbls butter
1lbonionshalved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise (3 cups)
1/2tspsalt
1/2tspnutmeg
1cupchicken stock
Duxelles:
3Tblsbutter
1/4cupshallotsvery finely minced
2cupTbls trufflesor 1/3(75 ml) of dried mushrooms
1lbof white button mushroomsstems removed and finely minced.
1/3cupheavy cream
1/4tspsalt
Black pepper to taste
3/4cupMadeira
Mornay Sauce
1cupwhole milk combined with the braising juices
1/2cupheavy cream
4Tbls butter
6Tbls all-purpose flour
1/4cuphard Swiss cheese such as Gruyere
1pinchof nutmeg
1/8tspcayenne pepper
1/2tspsalt
Whipping cream
2-3grinds of cracked black pepper
Instructions
Prepare the Veal
Tie the veal roast into a roll and soak in the brining solution for at least 1 hour. Pat dry and allow the meat to come to room temperature. Salt and pepper generously.
Pre-heat the oven to 325ºF (165ºC). Melt 2 Tbl (30 ml)of the butter and the olive oil in an oval-shaped Dutch oven. Brown the roast on all sides for 3-4 minutes. Remove veal to a platter. Drain off all but 2 Tbl (30 ml) of the fat, reduce the heat and melt the remaining butter in the Dutch oven.
Add the onion, carrots, and celery and toss until they are coated. Nestle the veal roast among the vegetables and bouquet garni and pour the wine/water around it. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and braise for approximately 75 minutes in the oven until a meat thermometer reads 145º-150ºF (62ºC - 65ºC).
Transfer the veal to platter and tent with aluminum foil and rest for 30 minutes. Strain the braising juices and reserve.
Soubise
Cook the rice for 5 minutes, then drain and set aside. Heat the butter in a sauté pan and slowly sweat the onions until they are very soft. Add the stock and rice, cover, and cook for one hour on very low heat or in the oven with the veal.
When the soubise is fully cooked and most of the liquid has been absorbed, puree it in a food processor fitted with a steel blade.
Duxelles
Submerge the dried mushrooms in the Madeira and 1/3-cup (75 ml) of hot water and let stand for 25 minutes. Remove the mushrooms with a slotted spoon and strain the liquid through cheesecloth and set aside.
Melt the butter in a sauté pan, add the shallots and sweat then gently cook the mushrooms until they leach, then re-absorb their moisture. Stir in cream and simmer gently until the mushrooms absorb the cream. Adjust seasoning by adding salt and pepper. Set aside.
Mornay Sauce
Combine the reserved braising liquid and Madeira, and top up with enough milk for 3 cups (710 ml) of boiling liquid. Melt the butter, and then add the nutmeg and cayenne pepper. Use a metal whisk to combine and brown slightly for 2 minutes. Add the liquid in a slow but steady steam, whisking vigorously to ensure that the mixture is free of lumps. Add the grated cheese, combining thoroughly. Dilute with cream if necessary.
Final Assembly:
Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC).
Slice the roast into ¾-inch pieces and lay them out on a cutting board to facilitate re-assembly.
Add the soubise to the duxelles. Spoon or pipe the mixture in between the veal slices leaving some of the stuffing exposed. Use a wooden skewer to hold the slices together on a buttered roasting pan.
Heat half of the Mornay sauce and carefully coat the veal and stuffing. Bake for approximately 25 minutes.
Serve with the remaining Mornay sauce.
Notes
Serve with buttered green vegetables such as peas or string beans.